2016 Road trip, SanDiego to Prudhou Bay, Alaska, seven weeks, 11k miles...
Week 1, May 29-June 4 & Preramble
Week 7, July 10 - July 14 & post trip
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Week 4, June 19-25
June 19, 303 miles, Anchorage at Eagle Creek to Tok campground
After getting up early to worry about the weather, of which I have little control over. Sorta like a watching a buttered bread drop wishing it will land sunny side up, not happening. But in this case, the weather was nice, cool, rain drops every so often light traffic. I would say it was a great ride through the Glenn Allen highway. Near the cut off to Tok, killer clouds showed up and it looked like I was watching a wave underwater at sandy's beach about to break. Giant clouds, then the cold front and winds kicked in. A few bikers slowed down due to the high winds, and raised roads where sketchy for sure, as the winds would woosh over the areas then funnel up to the raised roads. Alas, I've survived (always a good thing). Morning was a bit crazy, as the starter is acting up again. NO problem while the engine is warm, but cold, it is spinning. I have tools, and will check it out. Push starting a bike is never fun. Maybe I can order a new starter to be shipped to Steven and Alaura's?
Tomorrow, north or south is the question.
June 20 Tok, Alaska to Dawson City, Yukon, on the way to Stewarts crossing 258 miles via the border that closes at 8pm...
Not a bad day, up at Tok, fuel for me and the bike. Bike starts, bonus round for sure, and off and running. Ran into Clause from, something like a week ago at Whitehorse. He has the same bike, just purchased it and loves it. Hard to miss the fellow, as he has the deepest most unique accent I've ever heard. German and Australian, with both fitting to be the most prominent. When I last saw him, he was carrying a giant tire around, apparently he sold it. He was at Tok and offered a beer, I declined as I've had more beer in the last few days then the last three weeks. I must be getting old. We wandered over and both meet "John" from Chicago. He had trailered his bike to Wyoming?? and then road to Alaska. The three of us laughed and commiserate about the fun roads and copious amounts of construction. I thought that the road crews competed to see who could make a biker eat it, both with digging up the road, and the follow me truck, goes like 1 mph, "Hey I'm on two wheels here, pick it up a little, especially before the semi crawls up my tailpipe..."
John from Chicago, who builds dry docks and piers, is off to Glenn Allen and then Prudhoe, Klaus has done Prudhoe several times and think it is over done by bikers. He does have a point, like lemmings, they all head north to the ocean, five minute dip of the toes, and back to the US of A. I'm guilty and so glad I did it.
Meet Bill from Chicago as well, just before the border we stopped to chat. We had passed each other off and on from before Chicken. Bill is a big guy on a big bike, but having fun, and loves to talk. I kept trying to put my earphones on and helmet over them, but he wouldn't stop talking, to funny. I finally waved and said I would have a beer in Dawson City. Alas, Dawson city was fun, river crossing was a hoot over the Yukon, which was raging several knots. I didn't stay long as it seems like the Waikiki of the Yukon, dirt streets, casinos, and lots of tourists..
I'm now sitting in my tent, about six miles from Stewart Crossing, where I can get fuel in the morning. 6:30 in the evening, light out and right as I was finishing dinner it started to rain. Thus far, I've had little run in with rain. Today was an exception both driving and at the campsite, but with only a few minutes of an epic downpour each. But hey, no rain, no rainbows. Being so early, I could put my rain jacket on and head to the river/lake, but it is pretty nice to chill out. Still raining, I watch the mosquitos chew away at my tent hoping they can come in and feed, nope, not tonight. Speaking of feeding, campsite I'm at, I think I'm the only tent, all others are in big boxes (RV's). It seems suddenly that I have plenty of time to get to Seattle. Hmmm, more exploring for sure. I may try Vancouver Island for a few days if that is the case.
June 21- 314 miles, Stewart crossing to Johnson's Crossing, Yukon
Rolling up the miles that is for sure. I'm at 7000 miles thus far, and rolling on. I need to slow down a little or I'll be in Seattle to soon, but not soon enough. Maybe a side trip to Vancouver island?? Meeting lots of people chatted to a radiation oncologist physician on a motorcycle road trip as well, he sounded pretty confident about thyroid surgery. Maybe someday the doctors might remove "cancer" from this sort of thyroid problem. Thinking about Steven tons, as I'm sure he is wondering "why me", "How", and again "why me" among other thoughts. I know he will be ok, but hard not to worry, that is for sure.
June 22 - 327 miles, Johnson's crossing to Dease Lake, Canada
And so it goes, great ride, nice weather a little rain, but oh so cold. Pulled over to add second jacket, over pants and boot covers, bonus found the baklava (no, that is not a confection, but a mask to keep face and neck warm). Back on the road, much warmer, I think I had a low of 44' but it felt chilly. Ran into some others headed north, asking about taking a street bike to Prudhoe bay with a trailer, I suggested, not a great idea, but they will try. Ran into the New Zealanders and John the Australian, we kept crossing paths. Fun group traveling from New Zealand and Australia. John gets off his bike at the construction site and walks around with a helmet cleaner and towel telling riders to drop their shield, he gives em a squirt and wipes the front off, very comical for sure.
Back to the ride, I thought I would pass the Cassiar highway back down, and head to Liard hot springs, but as it turns out it is a bit far away, so turned back and headed down the famous Cassiar highway. Maybe a day in Hyder Alaska, one of the few places you can drive to without having to go through the Yukon to Alaska. I've made it to Dease Canada. Interesting people on the way, one place for gas was over 5/gallon, lady didn't take credit cards, but no problem taking american with "No exchange", i.e. no 78 cents to the dollar, change back was in Canadian, not much I could do about that one. Next gas stop was the crustiest old timer I've ever seen. I considered asking to take his picture, but the young lady running the register saved me, as he was hanging out talking story, I think she rolled her eyes a few times. At Dease lake, promise of water means there is a lake nearby. Running low on water, Saimin for dinner and I've enough water for breakfast. or may feed in town. Tried for a swim. Walked to the shore line and got into my shorts, wandered out, and realized, way to cold. Splashed some cold water, felt good.
I'm now sitting in my tent, 7pm and all is well. I'm posting my photos at
https://goo.gl/photos/jzGEe5n7mF2UQpKD9
check em out!
June 23 - 243 miles - Dease Lake - Stewart BC.
Great riding today, as I left about 9 and in by 4pm, the ride was wonderful. Saw a couple bears (finally). I was beginning to think there were no bears left in Canada. Found a great little community park to camp at, as I'm ahead of schedule setup for a few nights in Stewart. Not a lot to see, but amazing sites. My first impression is tall amazing mountains and trees to the skies. On the way down, it looked like someone had swiped cotton balls across the tops of the trees, snow capped mountains and rivers along the valleys. A couple riders I meet didn't care for the Stewart- Cassiar highway, as they didn't like the view, to many trees. I found it spectacular and refreshing, ever changing.
Stewart is a unique little town, and borders Alaska, actually, just a few miles away, actually walking distance to Hyder per a retired couple on motorcycles. Tomorrow is Salmon Glacier, apparently you can drive right up to it. Hyder is interesting, 500-1000 people per day come and go. And with little to nothing there. It was suggested I get Hyderized, a salon where you take a 3 oz shot of everclear, if you choke on it you buy the bar a round. Hmmm, not sure if I'm up for that challenge. Dinner was at the Dash Bistro, burger fries and a local root beer, bonus was internet.from the neighboring motel. Touched based with Janet and all is good now. Meanwhile, back at camp, meet another rider, Lasner from vancouver, great guy retired and enjoying the ride. As I came in, he waved me over and offered a couple beers, and chatted, fun and interesting guy. He suggested I check out the toaster museum tomorrow, open 7am-2pm, sounds unique to say the least. I finally called off the chat, and headed back to my campsite. Bugs are copious, so in tent, watching a movie typing todays episode of "John's epic trip"....
June 24, 47 miles, Salmon Glacier & hanging out in Stewart!
June 24
Nice day for a break, with two nights in one camp. Great breakfast at a little place in town. Town is tinny, but fun, people make room for each other, everyone knows everyone, and the people are great. Not artificial great, like, "hey lets treat tourist nice", but great people living their lives saying hello and enjoying life as it should be. Coffee was great, I've been without coffee since Erv's and that was really good coffee. Off to Salmon Glacier today, about 30 miles out of town on a dirt road. Not being in any rush, I took my time and enjoyed the ride, a blue day with some clouds, but overall, great weather. First stop, is at the bear watching area. Each year the salmon come back up stream, and guess who is waiting for some of this fattening fast food to swim by, but grizzly and brown bears. I'm a month early, but walk the area, as it it a nice place along the river, protected pretty well from any bears. That is unless one got in the gated area, then that would be really bad I suspect. Off and continuing my spin to the glacier, it starts to get cooler and the valleys are snow covered, with little traffic. I can see bits of the glacier as i get close, to finally around a corner and breathtaking, beautiful. Once at the top, I'm a bit worried as everything is clouded in, but they have some nice granite chairs, I'm in no rush and have some cool water and protein bars. Sitting the clouds start to lift and amazing, miles and miles of glaciers start to pop out of the clouds. Be sure to check the link for the pictures I've posted on my google site, found on the main page at the top is a link. I spend pretty much all day, chatting to other bikers and visitors, and have a great time. We can't get the glacier as the are doing road work, but the site is close enough for me. One of the bikers is a guy named Matt. Interesting guy, and turns out we are across each other at the camp. He is from Vancouver Island, married at, Voodoo Doughnuts in Portland, and his wife rides the same bike as he does, very cool. We hit it off and have dinner back in Stewart, and chat for like over three hours from politics, to multimedia and universities. After dinner, with a little time left I use the "Toaster Museum" internet to give Janet a call to wish her a happy anniversary, 28 amazing years, with an amazing woman. I do miss her and she loves the Salmon Glacier, and we talk about coming back some time to stay a bit and check out the glacier. That would be a ton of fun, but when and how, is the question. Regardless, happy anniversary to an amazing wonderful person that gives me purpose in life and fills my dreams of years to come, as I couldn't think of anyone on this planet I would want to experience this amazing life together that we have. Cheers Janet!
Off to Prince George, or almost there tomorrow. My goal is Horseshoe Bay, via Whistler at about 860 miles. From Horseshoe bay, across to vancouver island, tootle around a few days, then back to Victoria, and a ferry to Port Angeles at the foot of Olympia National park. That should have me into Seattle by the 3rd with Jeanne and David, then Steven and Alaura's 4-7 or so. Off to lala land. Happy dreams and warm wishes to one and all. And to Janet, happy anniversary my love!
jc
June 25, 308 miles, Stewart to just before Prince George
Happy 28th anniversary to Janet, my inspiration, mother of our amazing kids and beside being the amazing and wonderful wife she is, my best friend and life partner. 33 years married, fun times, crazy times mostly amazing times. Missing her on this adventure and I think this is our first anniversary apart in all these years. A toast to Janet today.
Finally seeing bears, haven't seen really any thus far. I know they are there, and others I'm riding with have seen, but not much for me. I must be focused to hanging on. Scenery is truly amazing, other riders find it monotonous, but it is ever changing. Skies have been slightly overcast, with cool winds, occasional sprinkles but not so bad riding is pleasant. Nights are longer now, and the farther south I head the more cars on the road. Is it summer kicking in, or more people starting to show? Saw a small bear on the way out of Stewart, more waterfalls and glaciers on the way out. Riding with Matt from Vancouver, tech guy from the Emily Carr art institute. Fun riding, and got some pictures of him off roading, trying to get closer to the glacier, but the roads where really washed out, so back out he came. A group of snowboarders had also decided to hike for some snow, not sure how that went. So, back to the road, stopped for gas at a old store, got gas and talked to the owner for some time. Grandmother who showed us pictures of her new grandchild in Prince George. Stories of coming across Canada as a kid, with seven brothers and sisters, stopping to camp and getting swarmed by flies, reload the truck and the dad kept driving, that would be a long day, or days. I didn't want to get to Prince George, as the miles where rolling up to fast, so a camp, just past lake Burn's and even smaller community lake Frasier. A great little spot off the highway. Basically a lake and a few coarse gravel campsites. A few people come and go, but we stay, chatting about bikes, music and life. Dinner is great, saimin in the jetboil, suddenly it is late and he suggests stashing our food in a tree or something. We decide to stash it on the outhouse, as we suspect the bears will stay clear of the crap. Again, no bears, so I'm not to worried, or have I been lucky. THe analogy I've been considering over the last few weeks, is like like diving and sharks. I know they know I'm there, they keep a distance, but are around. Maybe same with bears? Off to sleep as it is late. More tomorrow!
it is funny, but I write these with little editing. I'm sure they are rough to say the least, maybe at home I'll find time to clean it up. Pictures are posted at
John's Epic Trip Pictures Link
or
https://goo.gl/photos/jzGEe5n7mF2UQpKD9