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2016 Road trip, SanDiego to Prudhou Bay, Alaska, seven weeks, 11k miles...

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Week 3, June 12-18

June 12, 252 miles - Fairbanks to Cold Foot

Left Fairbanks at about 7:30 am, light rain, but not to bad. I was pretty well layered up. Stopped for fuel and a quick gas station breakfast of pastries and iced coffee and gas for the long ride. Idea is Fairbanks to Coldfoot, then stay the night and continue to Prudhoe bay aka Deadhorse for a night at the inn (200/night ouch). Drive up was beautiful, no animals seen along the way, but did see a handful of cars that had meet their maker, given up the ghost, or otherwise will never be driven again. Some off road, a few looked like they tried to stop a semi. I took it easy at gentle speeds of 50-65, with many spots of loose deep gravel. This makes for squirly driving. Got the thumbs up from many others headed back to fairbanks. Found the arctic wildlife center at coldfoot (only show in town) and walked around and tried to watch a piece on the artic, great movie, but my first time in the dark, and the head was bobbing, I shifted back and forth, and seemed to make it through without sleeping (I think). Meet a couple that came up in a bmw GS with a sidecar, I think the lady mentioned there is no suspension on the sidecar, and that was one bumpy road.

I've crossed the Yukon river, a river of so much history and that if it could talk would tell of many souls trying to make a life in Alaska, during, before or after the gold rush. I've been listening to James Michener's "Alaska" on the road and can only image someone riding a bike on the Yukon for some 1000 miles during winter.

Tomorrow we continue on to Prudhoe, the road will be rougher than I've seen so far. A few stories of snow at the pass and wet down roads in Prudhoe bay that can be very slippery, we shall see. I suspect we will stay the night, then head back, as a straight shot to Fairbanks tomorrow after the arctic tour. I brought my bathing suit, but have been told that it is hard to swim, as it is still covered in ice. Yes, mosquitoes have been epic, large and in swarms. If Dengei or Zeka get a hold in Alaska, it will be all over, as there are so many of those buggers. What purpose do they server, what niche do they fill in the biology of our planet.

The mosquitoes have chased me into my tent, and wow is it warm at 9:30pm in the evening this far above the arctic circle, I never could imagine it being this warm. I should have turned my tent so the long end faces the sun, but this will do, as I need to sweat out a few pounds. Note to self, bring fan. Sun should fall behind the mountain I hope, that might cool things down. As I sign off, the people I've meet. A biker from Hungry that has a bicycle and thumbed a ride to Prudhoe bay and is riding back to Fairbanks. The couple that flew their bicycles to Prudhoe and are riding to the tip of south america, truly amazing. They got caught in a snowstorm and camped next to a pump station, to wake up to 5 inches of snow. The station workers where great and brought them inside to warm up and wait for the weather to improve. The couple from Bellingham, in a BMW 600 with a sidecar, just celebrating their 34 anniversary. When they talked about kids, they kept putting it off, new house, new job, big move, and suddenly life has passed them by, but they show so much love for each other, it is truly wonderful to see. A group of buddies that rented motorcycles in Fairbanks and taking this trip of a lifetime. Rick I meet from Minnesota who works on wind farms, and has taken six weeks off to ride to Prudhoe and other locations. As I end tonight the sun is bright, skies are wonderful and tomorrow will be exciting heading to Prudhoe bay. I've put my toes into many oceans but never one this far north. Time to put on my United eye covers and headphones to block out the light and sounds.

July 13 - 221 miles Cold Foot to Prudhoe Bay and the Beaufort sea!

My focus of this wonderful epic trip was to reach Prudhoe bay, and put my toes into the Beaufort sea, and soon I will have experienced this, will it be elation, or wonder what the next edventure will provide. I am so looking forward to seeing Steven and Alaura in a couple weeks, but I have yet to plan what I will do between then and now.

Having left Coldfoot early, up at 5am, and left camp 7:30 am, made for a smart choice. Other riders arriving at camp spoke of thick fog and cold rain. I just had lots of wind, rain and crazy roads. Some parts are full of this very thin, almost like oily slick mud, I think it is calcium chloride that they use to seal the roads. All great and wonderful until it rains. Then it is an oozing layer of slippery mud. I will be happy to leave that past me tomorrow as we head South. It is amazing landscape, but very barren, yet green with low brush or grasses. Atigun pass was better then I had anticipated, I had thought of a towering mountain, and barely creeping up one side, only to head straight down the other side. Actually a great ride and very scenic. Atigun pass was amazing and truly worth the trip. Arctic circle was fun, but more of a checklist item, great for bars, "Hey you ever been to the arctic circle?"... You could see animal trails in the snow, thick ice sheets on the rivers and some lakes still frozen over. That can't be good I would suspect? Such as it is, when I made it to camp, I drove right past our 200/night camp motel. And drove through another 5 miles of some of the crappiest road to find out I was at the wrong hotel. Back I drove and hear I am. No keys to the rooms, not sure why. One facility had a sign about a bear spotted that morning behind one of the camps, and to be careful. I removed my softbag from my bike just to be safe.

Tomorrow, it is the dip the toes into the sea day. Should be interesting to say the least. Looking forward to seeing Janet, as I do miss her, but I know she is having fun with Jessie being home. I can tell by the selfie smiles of their adventures posted on facebook. It is late and time for my post nap and dinner, as I'm pooped out.

Stay tuned, tomorrow makes three weeks, my half way point in the trip. Appropriately at the farthest North I can drive. People continue to be great, from all walks of life and enjoying the day.

June 14th - 242 miles Prudhoe to Coldfoot.

How do I get more miles coming back then going, hmmm? A primo mid trip all the way around. I've been on the road for three weeks (how did that happen), and walked into and onto the Beaufort sea, a dream come true realized, riding across an amazing country meeting all sorts of interesting people. A giant shout out to Janet who gets the spouse of the year award for putting up with me. I didn't have internet since Fairbanks, and spaced sending her a note that I was headed North. I was a bit worried about the weather, and spaced it. And until Prudhoe bay, no internet or cell phone service. But once I arrived my phone lite up like a christmas tree, but a few notes I had queued into the text, whatsapp and email got sent off as soon as I had internet. And quickly I got a response that she was happy to know I was alive.

Prudhoe bay aka deadhorse is a trip. Flat and nothing around at all except for oil rigs, big machines and more big machine things. Apparently summer is the slow time and most people are gone, they have a couple 747's that they fly workers to Fairbanks or Anchorage as part of the job when the place shuts down, so the place is pretty empty, as well as the price of oil is pretty low. This means they aren't pumping much out of the ground these days. Gas was $5.139/gallon for regular unleaded, ouch, but not a lot of choices in the area. You would think being at the source of all things oil, it would be cheaper, but nothing is cheap in Prudhoe bay area. Now about "Deadhorse", I had thought it was a miner that got to the bay, and the horse died, which would suck, but apparently it is the name of the first company to work the area, or so I'm told. I only meet one native indian, Jonathan at working the road construction. Great guy, stopped drinking, found religion and taught himself to play bass, guitar and piano for his church. As we hung out with me freezing for about 30 minutes, it was fun chatting. These guys make some good coin. One sign waiver gets 28/hour 12 hour days, 7 days a week. Thats some good coin, and he only works summer, room and board covered. I'm pretty sure the other guys who run the trucks, or oil crew get a bit more than 28/hour. Tour operator suggested not to eat the foxes as I think he said 90% have rabies, yikes, the others have a parasite that is deadly to people.

Ride back was much better than the ride over, less rain, slippery snotty mud and did I mention rain, cold rain, oh and wind, hard to enjoy the sites when you can't see anything... Beautiful snow on the mountain and amazing scenery., very enjoyable, pics to come soon. I'm glad to have taken this trip, but once was enough. So many motorcycle people on the road with amazing stories. A group of four that we traveled with for a bit, are retired surgeons, and engineers with johnson and johnson, who have retired pretty young, and are enjoying life. Fun dudes for sure.

June 15 - 275 miles, Coldfoot to Denali National park

What a long strange trip its been.... I think I'm done with off road riding for a while, bumpy rock strewn roads are fun, for a while, a short while that is. Left Cold food at 7:45, and headed south. A stop in Fairbanks looking for a pressure washer, only to find out that they have one next to safeway. 5 Bucks with the mega pressure washer and I took a couple layers of cement off the bike. Back to Safeway for coffee and a sandwich, more gas and back on the road. Toured around Denali park a bit, meet some other bikers and talked story. It is funny how bikers get off a bike and walk around to talk to other bikers, what a friendly lot for sure. a giant Honda and a three wheeler were headed to the arctic circle. I suggested it didn't seem like a great idea. The bikes have about 3 inches of clearance and weigh about 1200 pounds plus... Fun talking with them, and I'm sure it will all work out. These mountains are amazing, snow capped and miles of green trees as far as the eye can see. I wish I had taken more pics, but you can only stop every few feet before you are quickly getting nowhere... Nice to be doing 70+ on smooth roads, cars are not a big issue and every seems to be aware of driving. I did pull into one vista of the mountains and a giant stretched motorhome aka the titanic pulled up next to me pinning me in, so I had to meander about to get back on the road. Camping in the Denali National park was very full, so headed back North to a little camp on a lake, $11/night and they include showers. A bunch of kids from the cheque republic and Jamaica working at the camp, or serving dinner. I found a place walking distance from my tent, $30 for a halibut steak, and a couple beers, I skipped dessert. I was feeling really good, beautiful evening full stomach, a couple great IPA's. As most people know, one beer is like a six pack to me, so two beers and I was about to ask the stuffed bison hanging on the wall for a dance... Back at camp, had a great talk with the amazing and wonderful Janet. She is working on my desk, and I think the kitten approves, as her drawer is all cleaned out, and coated with a sealer with a fresh towel. A desk is like a garage and accumulates things long since needed Thank you Love! A shower and walk around the bike, but the two beers and being very relaxed, I setup my micro cot and and sitting here check that, laying down typing on my little chromebook, hoping I can post someday. I need to plan a bit, tomorrow is Anchorage, see Erv and then not sure if I'll get to turnabit arm and the glacier as well, but we shall see. Then it is back to Tok, Dawson city and time to work my way back to Seattle. I'll try to grab more food before leaving anchorage.

June 16, Denali to Anchorage

233 miles, from a great campground to Anchorage. Leaving, I was talk about the Mcandless bus, they had towed to a little park not far from my campsite. What an interesting person for so many strange reasons. Check out the into the wild, jon krakauer book. Movie is better, as it has some great music. I suspect there are many others that try to follow in this kids footsteps. Found Erv's place and will hang out for a couple days with these wonderful people. Dinner at a pizza place, amazing pizza, cold beer and warm hearts. So good to touch base with these guys. Cindy came over before dinner, as she is back in Anchorage, just back from Hawaii. Laundry, shower, life is great. Erv and I will hang out in Anchorage tomorrow and then I'll start my journey back, greatly refreshed.

My left front fork seems to weep a bit of fluid, so I need to watch that. Not sure, what is up, but nothing loose. TIme to google that and see what is up. Have a great day to all!

June 17, - Anchorage

Arrived at Erves place, great ride from Denali park, truly beautiful with blue skies, warm air and views of distant snow capped mountains. How cool is that. I also have fun recognizing, was it just five years ago that I was in Alaska doing Tsunami work with Walt, Kamila and Jeanne, seems like only yesterday. I see many of the same sites and places that saw back then. It is funny to think I remember the giant tall light poles, cavernous canyons and truck stops that we stopped at then and strangely enough I'm stopping there again, for gas and coffee. Arriving at Erv's is great and Cindy comes to join us to say hello, as she is just back from Hawaii. Dinner is great, I order a large beer, and it arrives in a giant schooner, pizza helps it all go down.

June 18 - Seward by RV!

No bike riding today, but woke up in Seward after sleeping in late. Erve's RV is fantastic and lots of fun. Stayed up till late talking story, after a great dinner and a walk back along the ocean to the RV. Morning was spent walking to the Museum/Library to see the kiosk we had setup five years before, but the seward ocean center had agreed to place our kiosk, I didn't work, so Erv was able to get it moved to the museum. I think this place is great, affordable to visit, and tons of local people that are interested in history and learning. The kiosk looks great set among the information boards around it. So glad it is in use and working well after five years. After this rousing bit of great news, we walked to the harbor a burger and chocolate shake, most ono for sure. Back to the RV by 2pm, it is time to return, so prep the rv for liftoff and back on the road to Eagle falls. Weather is to be watched, very windy, and chance of some rain. Also a large fire has been spreading at the turnoff I will be taking to Dawson city via Chicken. Wish me luck!