2016 Road trip, SanDiego to Prudhou Bay, Alaska, seven weeks, 11k miles...
Week 1, May 29-June 4 & Preramble
Week 7, July 10 - July 14 & post trip
Looking for Something...
Can't find what you are looking for, email us and if we don't have it, I'm sure we can point you in the right direction.
Week 1, May 29-June 4 & Preramble
John's Epic Bike Trip 2016! 
johns bike trip part 1
John's Epic Trip Pictures Link, or https://goo.gl/photos/jzGEe5n7mF2UQpKD9 Before and after travel...
Youtube videos of the trip...
May 17, 2016, I dropped off my bike at harpers in Hilo with 99,757 miles on the odometer. My bike is a 2004 R1150GS BMW motorcycle. More of an offroad bike then a street bike, but still at over 600 pounds, and tall, it's a big bike. Fast forward many miles, audio books, great people, camping and amazing sites, I finally, picked up my bike at Harpers on August 4th, 2016, 110,866 miles, total of 11,109 miles driven over seven weeks. And so makes the trip of a lifetime. But where do we start....
I started out with a bicycle, went to a moped, and tried to learn how at age 14 or 15 to drive a Yamaha 500xt, a bit big for me. Fast forward (for a kid a year is forever) and I found myself the owner of a Honda 350SL enduro, not as heavy and fun to ride. I then started college at age 17, with a backpack of clothes, some albums and my trusty motorcycle, I started life at UH Hilo majoring in life 101 and computer science.
Our first date was to the top of Maunakea on November of 1983. Hot cereal in the dorm room, warm jackets and helmets, off we went, talk about trial by fire. So long ago it seems, but it was on my trusty 1974 Honda 350 enduro. Later after getting married, I found an old BMW motorcycle while looking for a bike seat and fell in love with it. Most of the parts where in boxes at a local cycle shop. I purchased it and rebuilt it, great fun and great memories.
Then one day I found myself moving up the adult ladder and kids started showing up in our life, so I stopped riding. My last ride, shows a picture of our new son sitting on the bike seat, but I stopped riding, being young and poor, priorities change.
Now that the kids have left the nest, and the planets and stars and life has lined up, and more so I have the blessing of a most wonderful spouse, life mate and amazing person to do this trip. I found an old 2004 R1150gs BMW on Maui and shipped it home. Replaced much of the bike in preperation for a road trip. Redid the clutch, rebuilt the gearbox, and beefed up the rear suspension, I think I'm ready for this. The plan... who needs a plan... ship the bike to arrive June 1st in San Diego Return to San Diego by July 14th... I think I can do this! Stay tuned for images, stories and great tales of riding a motorcycle from San Diego to Alaska 2016! Want to see where Coney is, check out "followmee.com", with https://www.followmee.com/mapx.aspx?token=75f946f2-3bdf-4f59-8413-9d3c663551c7
John Coney February 21, 2016
Timeline!
- March 21, 2016, booked bike on Pasha to San Diego.
- Set to arrive May 23, ready for pickup May 27th
- April 11, Flight book to San Diego on Hawaiian, arrive 5/29 at 11:17pm. April 16,
- Set valves, and sync fuel injectors. Added gps bike mount and preparing tools, camping equipment and supplies for trip.
- April 26, map night, plan to get some great guidance on trip planning.
- May 17th, drop bike off at Harpers for Pasha shipping. Bike is being shipped out of Hilo. Guys wrapped it up well. Ran into Childers on the way to Harpers, great to see him. Big Mahalos to Wesley for the ride and humor! Ran into Francis on the way to drop off the bike, and here is a fun picture.
- Gazebo almost done... The gazebo project I pretty much finish inpreperation before I leave town. I fly out on the 29th, and head to Morrow Bay, then inland to Yosemite. I tried to book a campsite last night, but booked for Sept 2nd, not June 2nd. Yikes!
- May 29th, up early for a trip to Halemaumau for photos, back for breakfast after a quick nap and headed to the airport. Fun morning trip to the park for sunrise! Breakfast and off to the airport...
Happy Memorial Day 5/30 Alas, made it to California. Checked into hotel at midnight after deciding to forgo the in-n-out burger stop. Room smells pretty bad, and felt little bugs all over, no other rooms that night where available. I was able to move the next day moved into a nice clean room, but smelled like dogs..
May 30th
Off in rental car to stock up on essentials, food and more food, heading north to Encinitas, never been there. Note to self, let credit card companies know about your adventures. The surprise was on me at Walmart when the credit card didn't work. I got a call from Janet while I was at walmart telling her that they didn't know about the trip. You would figure, booking rental car, airplane and hotel in my name I might be traveling, but I feel safer now.... But, no fear, it all worked out. Over to REI, can't pass that store up with 25% off, nice deal for sure. The cool tiny chair, was just a little to spendy for me, maybe next time, but oh so small and comfortable. Now geared up for several days worth of miles, I headed for the beach, coffee in hand. On the way, had a great time chatting with sister Nubee about a fun memorial day party she was holding for the kids. Looking forward to seeing her on the way back down. Lunch found me at In-N-Out Burger for my usual, chocolate milkshake and a double-double, nice.. I needed that, but Unfortunately, I don't think I should do to many more of those meals. A shout-out to Greg Flanagan, we touched base on FB messenger, and sounds like we will enjoy some wonderful Abalone soon. I had really hoped to see him and Mary on the way up, but I don't think that will happen until I'm on my way back down to San Diego. I've returned the rental car and caught an uber back to the "motel 6 pests" my new name for the place. Uber is cool and worked great. Much more to write about, but alas, time to hit the hay. 11pm, looks like weather is on, but it doesn't really matter does it, not much I can do about it ehh. Not much sleep the night before, but sleep calls and I fade out dreaming of what I forgot and what is ahead of me, is the Tioga pass clear enough to pass, will I get harassed into becoming a hells angels biker, or worse, become a speed bump for a giant 16 wheeler truck.... I hope the bike is released, as I really don't want to spend another night at this roach motel, well no roaches, bed bugs yes ugh, I scratch just thinking about it..., but the crab in elevator... Hmmm, I should have taken a picture.
May 31 - San Diego to Morro Bay, 368 miles or so.
Good morning, time to pick up the bike. Me and my helmet take an uber to the shop down the street to collect my bike. You can't help but think of all the bad things, stolen, fell of the barge, it is now in china, it fell over, ahh only worry about what you can do something about. My current zen approach to life. My bike, I can see it and it is in the back of the shop. They clear a path and bring it out, and I could swear my bike winked at me in happiness, or maybe that was some oil just dripping... Walk the bike, talk to the people and sign for it. I find myself driving a bike in california. Last time I drove on a bike in california was when I was what 14 visiting family. Back at the hotel, and getting ready to load up. I then realized, I have a ton of crap and am overweighted. Not good, but not much to do. I leave food for the staff suspecting that they sell food between here and Prudhoe bay.
Road trip begin! Let the fun begin, or should I say 0-80mph on a bike on a california freeway, trial by fire, I have survived. 11am and on the road. Cruising Del Mar and Encinitas, I have a ferrari in front of me and a lamborghini behind me, they are like weeds... I just hope I don't scratch one, I couldn't afford the paint. I stop a few time, as my rear lugnuts loosen up. I pickup a larger wrench and crank on it to tighten. And that is the last of my tire problems but a bit spooky. Up into Santa Ana, the opposite side of the highway is closed, some idiot wanted to become an organ donor and wiped out really bad. Traffic is slow, so I pull over to let the bike cool. I switch on Waze for navigation and it does well for me for most of the trip. Accidents, traffic slow down, etc. I have a charging mount on the handlebars and speakers in my helmet. I can receive texts that are spoke to me hands free, and I can reply. That is a bit more tricky, or more of an exercise in frustration. Cruising now past Long Beach, I am making great time. I avoid the lane splitting as it looks a bit dangerous, and my bike is pretty wide (engine not me, just saying). Amazingly I'm now inthe groove,and Ventura and Santa Barbara fly by while listening to some great music, mostly california early rock.
San Luis Obispo, 35 years later, I'm back. It is starting to become a bit more of the evening, but still with sun at 8pm. Ifind gas and a sandwich shop and roll into the campground at Spooner's Cove. Today was a good day, survived the traffic, didn't become a speed bump and bike is doing great. I've found a nice spot at the back of the campground, peaceful for sure. I have no cell service, so am not able to talk to Janet to let her know I'm ok, but we did speak earlier. A beautiful evening, bike checked, tent setup, and suddenly it is late. Tired I think back to this journey. How fortunate I am to do this, what a great and amazing world we live in. It is now late and I've been wheels down for over 10 hours straight with only a few stops. As drift off, I think 90% of my journey was just getting to this point. I'm fading off when I think I hear wild animals, I'm not in Hawaii anymore...
June 1 - Montana De Oro State Park to Lee Vinning, about 323 miles
And so starts the month of June. I've been checked out by Rocky-Raccoon, guess I got the stamps of approval with paw prints all over the bike, glad I didn't leave the keys with him. It is a quarter to 6am and I'm up and pumped for the day. A cool breeze floats in with a hint of sea salt. Breakfast and coffee, I am waking up to more miles of adventure and scenery.
When I purchased the bike from a fellow in Maui he said, "200 miles per tank", no more or you are pushing it, literally.I think back to the early 80's in college, and I've run out of gas on my honda 350 enduro in sleepy little Hilo. I take the tank off and thumb a ride to the gas station. Reaching into my pocket, 1.25, golden. Back to the bike, mount the tank and I'm off. This bike is much larger I wouldn't want to do that. And not like I have a trunk to stash my stuff, it's all hanging out in the open. So Fueling up is key for this trip is the motto, early and often. I do learn a few things about this, get food then gas, or the tank overfill dripping gas on hot asphalt, not cool.
I'm now heading to Yosemite via Fresno. It is hot in the valley, really hot and little shade, like 104+. I stop at a few road construction sites along the way. Lets see, boots, big and hot, socks, two things I never wear. Jeans and overpants (protection if I eat it), shirt, Long sleeve and big mondo biker jacket, and to top it all off a helmet. Stops are very warm experiences, but not much I can do about that. at one of the construction stops. I drink cool water and have some hard sugar candy to spur me on. But the tree call to me, "Hey brah, stop and take a siesta under the tree", but move on. Funny like Hawaii, all motorcyclist wave as they go by, I'm worried if I don't wave, will they send the bikers after me for reeducation? I try to wave as often as possible, just to be safe. I notice I'm the only bike on a warm,, no make that hot as hell afternoon. Hey, its a dry heat.. Still hot..I'm heading into the Sierra's and into Yosemite West. Things cool off and trees start to appear. The outskirts of Yosemite, I stop for more fuel and ice cold liquid for, just the thought, hey they have a working bathroom, unlike many other stations. Someone needs to talk to Chevron I tell you! Into the park, and chat. Nice Ranger from Florida, but no sweet talking will help, no camp sites are available. I drive though and stop for a fine lunch of "pop-tarts" chocolate of course and joice. Shoes off, and into the cool water, niceeee. Back on the bike and into the park. Wow, it really is beautiful. I hit my first tunnel, note to self, sunglasses off before entering the tunnel. I think I put a hole in my bike seat holding on for dear life, as it was really hard to see, head for the light, the light... Other side I pop out and Bridal falls, half dome. I stop for photos. Very nice! Yosemite park is amazing. Colors and shapes like no other. I stop again and enjoy, puting my toes in the ice cold stream. I think, sorry downstream fish, my toe-jams are big time oogly. Finally time to leave the park. No camping spots found I meander to Tioga pass, and check, still no camping spots, but I find snow, I like snow! I continue on with several stops to enjoy the sites, but the day is getting long in the shadows, time to call it a day. I'm running out of camping places to stay the night. I'm thinking of just running off the road to camp, when I see a stream and head towards it. A campground, an epic end to a great day of many scenic miles. I now realize, There is little to no drinking water at these campsites. Hmm, very unexpected. The shadows grow longer I check the bike and after a wonderful dinner and a walk, it is late and and a well earned bedtime calls to me.
June 2 - Lee Vinning to Lakeview, Oregon, about 400 miles
Aloha Kakahiaka campers. It is bright and early in Lee Vining. Up and breaking camp, I realize I feel better then I thought I would after some 700+ miles. I meet that camp coordinator, nice guy, gives me the rundown, his dad used to run the park, who has passed on, now he runs the place while it is open during the year. I ask about water, and he mentions a spigot some ways away, I explain I got water from the river and boiled it, he was more worried about the arsenic. Not much I can do about that now. I finish packing up, take another walk and hit the road. Highway 395 is my route to get to spokane, Hmm, I wonder what I will see on the way.
The road is much cooler than I thought as I head to Lakeview Oregon and empty, not many cars pass by. I will find the farther north, the less traffic I encounter. I pass by the shoe tree and many dead gas stations. Maybe there is less road travel then in the past, or am I on the road less traveled? It is hard not to stop at many of these places along the way, I know I won't be back, but I look ahead and think of what I might see next.
I arrive in Lakeview, but need to share a funny story. Before leaving I setup a tracking app for my wife and promised to call or text when I could. Three hours different, When I hit the road at 6am, it is 3am for her, so sending a text would waker her. By the time I get to camp at 7, it is 4pm so she is at work and hard to find time to communicate. The story goes, I text her to find a camp spot for me. She finds a place and texts me. I drive to the area, but find nothing, not even a road. Hmm, more on this later and the german guy I meet. I have no service and head back to Lakeview and find BaseCamp. Actually a great little spot and one of my most memorable campsites I stayed at. It is setup for bikers, an I find a tall tree and grassy fields to camp in. A few other bikers are already there, but very spread out. An older German fellow pulls up and asks to share the picnic table and camping spot. Of course I say. Interesting guy, maybe in his 70's but ends up talking all night, I think I know more about his life then mine. Lives in Canada, divorced and takes these bike trips to get out. I mention the campsite I couldn't find earlier, and he laughs. He had another older friend go to the same area, but when he pulled over, his bike fell over and he couldn't get it up for several hours. I would do sort of the same thing later in the Yukon, but that is for later. If you are ever in Southern oregon, stop at the base camp RV park, great owners, a burger place in town and great camping. Well it is late, the nice guy doesn't want to stop talking, I try a few times and it must be 11:30, finally I crawl into my tent, the guy is still talking to me... aggh but a nice guy.
June 3 - Lakeview, Or to Pendleton KOA, 382 miles
He must have stayed up late talking, as he is still inside his tent when I rise and shine, breaking camp and figure out what is next. Breakfast of hot cereal sticks to the ribs and is easy to cook using my jet boil. He finally pops his head out as I'm setting to roll out, I great him and wish him a safe journey, wondering what he will do next. I get to the street and think, there is fuel up ahead, yes, or should I have topped up last night at dinner... Looking back, always top off on a bike with 200 miles of range.
I head north, and have about 70 miles of range on the bike, it could be 90, it could be 50, lets not find out. I get to the intersection of 31 to Paisley Bend and Alkali Lake Burns, my route 395. I need fuel, and with fantastic news, there is a gas station and a black lab hanging out. I park and wait for it to open. An hour rolls by, no sign of life, what to do, so I ask the black lab, he doesn't say much, but I get the hint he wants to play fetch or get scratched behind the ears.. Ok it's been an hour and half, this isn't happening. Three choices, head back to town, 20+ miles, Alkali lake is 200 miles and Paisley Bend, no idea. Being smart, would have been to double back get fuel and continue on. Did I mention, I'm not so smart. I head to Paisley Bend, the unknown, and nothing really on the map to show, I hope I'm not using up any murphy or karma points. Fuel is getting low, I hunker in, slow down to conserve gas. Working the number and previous riding from last fill up, maybe I can squeeze a few more gallons. I lean the bike to the right to slosh some fuel to the fuel pickup side and keep chugging. And then, with a light sweat on my brow, I see a mirage in the distance, looks like Paisley Bend and with people. Where there is people there is coffee and gas. I pull into the town, town, is a misnomer, a corner in the road a coffee shack with a line of people and a gas station. Where have these people come from to get this coffee? Gas is great, and I chat with the owner of the station about continuing on. He seems to shake his head thinking why would anyone drive any place they didn't need to be. Looking back at the town, is a nice town with a school and airport, they have the Paisley Caves, something I missed sporing the "oldest north american poop was found here". Bummers I missed another good one.
I continue on, if there were few people, there are now no people on the road. I continue on hwy 31 towards Christmas valley. Christmas valley was really what sold me on this detour. After driving through, I suspect it must have been named initially "Christ, there is nothing here" before it became what it is now known as over time. This was one erie drive, not a sole, a dead lake but I had fuel, that was a good thing, should have stopped for coffee as well, next trip. I continue through the roads of mars, was that the mars rover I just passed.... Eventually I connect back to 395 near wagontire, and continue north on my great journey north. I do stop at Sage Hen rest for lunch, a snack bar and water, before refueling at Hines. There is life here, must be a farming community. I continue on what would be a 382 mile day or so. Lots of curves, and flat area, the weather is nice, I wonder how long that will last. I continue on to Camp Pendleton KOA campground. It truly is a nice drive. I realize I'm putting on to many miles before I can get to Cheney to visit my daughter at school. The audiobook for the last few days has been a book by Robert M. Pirsig, and write, philosopher and motorcycle rider, oh and a computer nerd. His book, Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance, is fantastic. I had read it when I was young but it seems like an entirely different book now that I am older, married with children. I contemplate seeing my daughter, will she be to busy as it is about finals. I continue on, thinking I never would have seen myself where I am now back in middle school thinking about cutting classes and surfing, life what a trip.
I haven't stayed at a KOI since our 2006 family road trip. As a Hawaiian born and raised in Hawaii, a long drive was like 30 minutes, and that was mostly due to traffic. I moved to the Big Island in 1983 and found how BIG it really is. By 1985 after a road trip with my girlfriend (I must have made a good impression on her, as she let me marry her but more on that later.) and her family to Quebec and back. I loved it, camping, places, people and the diversity, so open and fun. It was like the smorgasbord of all the world's foods to taste, but you just couldn't sample enough before you were full, but I knew I was taken by this travel bug. So I find myself at KOA at camp Pendleton. Interesting, clean, no internet, or overrun. I was the only camper, but must have been 30 motor homes. Why have a motorhome if you are going to stay inside all day?
I set up camp pretty quickly, and it seems like I can do it in my sleep. Shower and now for some food. Do I look for a steak and ale house, not me, I discover Hal's Hamburgers. I knew it was a great place when I came across a couple in a sidecar motorcycle setup, and a long line. I get a burger and chocolate milkshake, and it is most ono. Please stop off at Hal's Hamburgers, made me a happy camper. Trying not to order seconds I escape back to camp. Place is nice, cool air not much noise. For my fourth night camping this is the earliest I've been to camp.and I can now sit back to reflect on the days adventures, a black labrador, roads less traveled, fuel and desolation...
Like I said earlier, always fuel up when you can.
June 4 - Pendleton, Or to Cheney Washington, 267 miles
I wake up and am in no rush, as my daughter has things to do that morning. I inspect the bike, have breakfast, look over my gear and realize I can drop a ton of gear with her as she will be heading home in a week. Lucky her, but hey I'm buying her plane ticket, I'll pay for the over baggage fees as well. The drive is nice, and uneventful as I head to Cheney to check into a Super 8 nearby. I ask my local travel agent to find a hotel, and my amazing wife puts in a great place, ac, showers, and laundry services. My starter had been acting up since I left Hawaii. I thought it was the battery, or should I say, I hoped it was the battery and had replaced it. Starter problems, or the lack of starting problems. Hit the start button and "zzzzeee", "zzzzeee" no starting. I call BMW of spokane, and for 600 clams I can wait a week for a starter. I had called around and figured, just park on a hill next week's might be a good idea. I get to campus and check out my amazing daughters dorm, and tour the campus. Nice place and she is doing fantastic. I'm lucky to have great kids, but I suspect that is there mother's fault, if they followed in my footsteps, it would have been cutting classes and a lower gpa. We end our tour with dinner near the school. I get a call from Chris Hughes of MOtorcycle Classics. He is just finishing a graduation party and as late as it is, offers for me to come to his shop to look at my starter. I get there, and the guy is fantastic. Writes for BMW magazine, and restores BMW and old Ducaties. I love a shop that you can eat off the floor. He pops my starter off, takes it in and just so happens to have some old parts from the same starter. Fits like a glove and starts right up. Chris says, it should be replaced and I agree, but no time now. What a great guy, and did I mention he lives on one of the top 10 roads for motorcycle riding. Very cool dude in the book of cool dudes. Feeling a bit better, I head back to the motel, laundry and heading north over the Canadian border, but that is week two.
Tips for travelers:
Plan ahead, but not to much. Don't get caught up in what you have to do, enjoy the ride.
Electronics, I wish I had set my cameras to the correct timezone. Oops, that and a phone made things different.
Meet people, this world is full of great and wonderful people.
Pack light, do you really need to jeans, 6 shirts...
Follow the pages as I update them. I have become addicted to Tim Horton's as they have free internet. Tonight we make Alaska, late tonight, but tonight. Fairbanks will be a short drive from one Tok over the Canadian line, and we are looking at a few days in Fairbanks before the final push. Back to Hortons, I'll get into adding pics back in soon. Slow internet, I realized breaking things up might be easier. I've not taken as many pics as I thought, as it is really amazing. Animal Checklist Bison, lots of them Fox Moose, big little Eagles, Ravens (tons, See Banf for the rascal bird and my bike) Raccoon (Mayor of camp at Morro Bay)
Animal Checklist
- Bison, lots of them
- Fox
- Moose,
- big & little Eagles,
- Ravens (tons, See Banf for the rascal bird and my bike)
- Raccoon (Mayor of camp at Morro Bay)
Stay tuned for more fun!